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暨南史學

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篇名 食粥所見的宋人飲食療養觀
卷期 19
並列篇名 The Dietary Culture of Food and Healing in the Sung Dynasty from Eating Congee
作者 張聿璥
頁次 001-050
關鍵字 宋代飲食食療養生飲食之清Sung Dynastydietcongeenutritionhealthy lifestylesfood culturepurity in food
出刊日期 201607

中文摘要

宋代是一個文化發展極為興盛的朝代,許多流傳至今的傳統文化、習俗,追溯其歷史發展脈絡,大多盛行於宋代,例如華人們重視的食療觀念。透過先輩學者們的努力,可以知道食療的理論知識成形於唐代,盛行於宋代。然而究竟當時人們對食療知識的認識、以及實際實行於日常生活中的情形為何,尚有值得討論的空間。本文試圖透過醫學文本、士人文集、筆記小說,與食譜等不同類型的資料,來探究宋人是如何利用粥來療養身體、人們是否已經具有食療養生的知識,以及粥所蘊含的各種形象。透過醫學文本以及其中的諸多醫方,可以知道粥之所以被運用在身體療養中,主要是因為它具有兩種特性:一、四性平和,以粥輔藥,二、五穀為養,以粥養生。因為粥四性平和,能不傷藥性、助藥力、並緩解藥物的副作用,是以常被作為治病藥劑中的輔藥。此外,粥是以穀物為原料的一種食物,中醫常說「五穀為養」,穀氣頤胃能將營養由胃滋養至全身,因此平日食粥能養生;若身體不適時,則能使人體氣血豐盈,有足夠的元氣抵禦病痛與藥物帶來的副作用。而在士人文集與筆記小說中,能夠看到宋人對「生病食粥以療補」概念的認識與實行;除此之外,許多士人也崇尚日常食粥來養生,並且藉由詩文、日常往來等交流,無論是有意識或無意識的,將食粥療養身體的觀念傳遞出去,呈現了知識傳播的某種面向。由於宋人對食粥療養觀念的普及,使得粥從宋以前,幾乎與貧困、賑飢相連的印象,轉變為療疾養生的形象。而南宋的林洪,甚至將粥昇華至一種自身「清」之品味的表現。

英文摘要

There is a good development of society and culture in the Sung Dynasty. Many traditions have passed through centuries down to this day, such as the culture of dietary therapy. Through the efforts of senior scholars, we know that the theory of dietary therapy formed in Tang Dynasty, and it was popular in the Sung Dynasty. However, it still has a lot of room to discuss how the Sung people to learn the knowledge of dietary therapy and practiced in their daily life. This paper aims to study how the Sung people ate congee to recuperate and if they had the knowledge of dietary therapy and the images of recuperation and taste with Chinese medical ancient codes and records, Scholars’ Corpus, literary Sketches, and recipes. Through the Chinese medical ancient codes and records, we know that congee is used to supplementary inhibitory medicines, because its four nature of drugs is smooth and it can improve efficacy of the crude drug, ease the side effects of drugs. Besides, people usually eat congee would help them to be healthier in daily life, because congee is made from the grain, and essence of grain can nourish people’s bodies from their stomachs. By reading Scholars’ Corpus and literary Sketchbooks, we can know that the Sung people had concepts of eating congee to recuperate, and the implementation of concept. In addition, many Scholars also advocates the regimen of eating congee in daily life. Besides, it’s showing some of the dissemination of knowledge by poetry, article, and communicate with other people, whether they were conscious or unconscious, the concept of eating congee to be healthy was ass out. Due to the popularity of eating porridge wellness concept, the impression of congee most connected with poverty and hunger relief before the Sung Dynasty, changed into therapy regimen image. Until the Southern Sung Dynasty person Hong Lin made the congee became a way to show the taste of purity in food.

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