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科學與工程技術期刊

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篇名 具專家知識之客製化衣版設計
卷期 6:3
並列篇名 Expert-based Customized Automation for Making Garment Patterns
作者 黃素卿方晶晶丁瑜
頁次 41-54
關鍵字 版型展開褶子客製化garment patternsdartscustomized automationflattening method
出刊日期 201009

中文摘要

本研究提出不可展曲面展開法,用電腦輔助設計三維服飾並結合專家經驗自動產生版型。該法導入服飾設計專家的經驗與知識,提供版型展開拘束條件,利用網格排列靠攏以自動產生基本版型,以初步降低二維衣版與所設計曲面面積差異量,提高服飾的合身度並創造優美的穿著曲線。另一方面,也利用專家知識經驗改進腰褶產生公式與流程,並研發肩褶、袖襱褶、脇邊褶等斜向開褶。藉由局部網格的靠攏,將網格裂縫累積集中至一處,用以模擬傳統版型之開褶。利用不同開褶位置減少實際輸出衣版與原始設計曲面的差異量,並進行分析以求證各種因素對版型結果之影響。最後並可輸出至一般二維編修軟體,進行細部編修後,輸出實際的衣版,供縫製成服飾試穿。

英文摘要

In this report, we present a flattening method for developing basic two-dimensional (2D) patterns from three-dimensional (3D) designed garments. This method incorporates professional pattern development skills for the purpose of automating them. The aims of this research are to improve the fittingness of clothing and to produce pleasing figures. For developing darts within a pattern, a method simulated by mesh alignment and a reduction in breaks among meshes is also introduced. Moreover, methods for developing shoulder, arm-scye, and side darts, based on advanced expertise in pattern design, are presented. In such circumstances, darts in those positions can further dramatically reduce the global area difference between the 3D designs and the developed patterns.
The analysis of the example presented in this report reveals the influence of the pattern from several aspects. Finally, the digital patterns developed in this research can be outputted into commercial pattern-editing software to generate actual garments cut/sewn manually from our designs.

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