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中國飲食文化 THCITSSCI

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篇名 雙面餃子-從顛不棱談起
卷期 4:1
並列篇名 On Dianbuling: Two Facets of One Dumpling
作者 楊玉君
頁次 025-051
關鍵字 袁枚官福顛不棱餃子Yuan MeiGuan FudianbulingjiaoziTHCITHCI Core
出刊日期 200801

中文摘要

袁枚在《隨園食單》中提到在廣東官鎮臺家中吃到一種肉餃叫做「顛不稜」,餃子的名稱雖然很多,但顛不棱一詞絕無僅有,據其作法推測,應爲英文dumpling的漢語音譯。顛不棱一詞體現了英國飲食、江寧籍的袁枚、旗人官福在廣東一地的交會,具有多重的意義。本文首先列舉餃子在中國歷史上的名稱,其次引用十八世紀的英國食譜中dumpling的作法來相比對,並自廣州作爲鴉片戰爭之前長達數十年唯一的通商口岸的事實,來說明該地具有的文化交流前哨地位。另一方面,本文考述當事人袁枚、官福的身份經歷、顛不棱與餃子在他們的認知體系中可能占有的地位,並從東西語言文化交流的例證推測爲何使用顛不棱這名稱以及顛不棱這一名稱並未流傳開來的原因。

英文摘要

In his Recipes from the Sui Garden, Yuan Mei mentioned a kind of meat-filled jiaozi he had at a certain Guan's residence called dianbuling. This odd term, previously unheard of, could possibly be the mandarin transliteration of the English term 'dumpling.' The anecdote about dianbuling embodies the convergence of English cuisine, a scholar from Nanjing (Yuan Mei), and a Manchu Bannerman from the North (Guan Fu), and their co-presence in Guangdong carries multiple layers of meanings. In this article, I first lay out the terms referring to jiaozi throughout Chinese history, then compare them with recipes of dumplings from Eighteenth Century English cookbooks. I place the term dianbuling within the context of 18th century Guangdong, which for decades had been the sole port allowed for foreign trade. In addition, biographical information of the persons involved is examined to determine what preconceptions they might have had about the food called dianbuling or jiaozi. To conclude this study, I further explore the tendency towards inter-language transliteration in cross-cultural intercommunications.

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