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東吳中文學報 THCI

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篇名 蘇軾惠州時期飲食重蔬食因素探論
卷期 19
並列篇名 An Exploration of a vegetable-meal-style of the Literate SU Shih, While he Lived in Hui-State
作者 林宜陵
頁次 213-230
關鍵字 蘇軾蔬食惠州SU ShihVegetables mealHui-StateTHCI
出刊日期 201005

中文摘要

蘇軾在哲宗親政後因為被認為詩文詆斥朝政,於紹聖二年後被貶惠州至紹聖四年四月責瓊州別駕止,都在惠州生活。惠州是一個靠海的治所,本應海產豐富,不乏美食。但哲宗親政後,政黨輪替,蘇軾處此貶謫異鄉、心力交瘁、憂國憂民之時,如何能有經濟能力與心情享有山珍海味及珍饈,因此在惠州時期東坡只能自給自足,以蔬食為主。蘇軾至惠州因罹患疾病等因素強調蔬食的食療,與近日文明病猖獗,多因過度食用肉製品的相關醫學報導契合,是以本文以此為研究動機,探討蘇軾在惠州的飲食詩詞文。此時期的蘇軾可以說是個蔬食主義者。在惠州時期一百二十首詩作中,以食物為題者就有十五首,可見這一時期的食物取得與料理食材,是蘇軾生活重要的部分。這些飲食詩中只有〈二月十九日攜白酒鱸魚過詹使君食槐葉冷淘〉、〈真一酒〉二首不是蔬食,而〈真一酒〉中所飲之酒也並非殺生而得。本文由蘇軾在紹聖二年至四年詩詞中所顯現的飲食特色為蔬食,探討該年蔬食之原因,由蘇軾詩詞文中可窺見,得出原因主要還在於:「經濟困頓」、「疾病所苦」、「物我同心」三項。一一深入分析探討,期望更瞭解蘇軾詩詞中對飲食文化的保留貢獻與創新。「困頓的經濟」以紹聖二年〈和陶貧士七首〉詩中提及:「余遷惠州一年,衣食漸窘,重九伊邇樽俎蕭然,乃和淵明貧士七篇。」為例說明之。「疾病所苦」以〈答黃魯直五首之四〉的書信中就說:「惠州已久安之矣。度黔,亦數日來苦痔疾,百藥不效,遂斷肉菜五味,日食淡麵兩碗,胡麻、茯苓麩數杯。其戒又嚴於魯直。」為主軸說明之。「物我同心」一篇則探討蘇軾在生命遭逢重大變故之後,對牲畜與水族被宰割的苦楚深感不忍,這也是蘇軾在此地以蔬食為主的原因。

英文摘要

When the Zhen-King of Song Dynasty had taken over the administration, his subordinate and literate Su Shih had been degraded, due to his composition against the court affairs. On the second year of the Zhen-King of Shao-Shen Reign, SU Shih was expelled to the Hui-State, where an administration state in the South situated on the sea shore and rich in sea-food with excellent cuisine. As Zhen-King of Song Dynasty controlled the government, the party changed. SU Shih was excelled in a strange state, felt exhausted both mentally and physically. He was concerned about his people and his country. He lingered in a shortage economic condition, no delight on delicious meal, and therefore he lived in a simple life, just to make ends meet, particularly, in a vegetable style. Su Shih suffered from disease, strived to use vegetable therapy to cure. These thinking and action fitted the modern medical reporting status; the fat-meal with meat product caused to the heart attack and hardening of blood vessels. This research focused on the specialty of Su Shih's living style in Hui-State. In this period, Su Shih might be regarded as a vegetarian. 15 pieces of totally 120 poems, was subjected to the vegetable ingredients and dish, was an importance from his daily life. Among them, the poem noted about "On 19th February I brought white wine with bass, visited the Official Zhan, eating bubs leaves of Locust Tree in cold" and the poem named "A Bottle of a True Schnapps", except those two pieces, all others composed about vegetables. This research carefully explored SU shih's difference of his vegetable program during the second year to the fourth year of Shao-Sheng Reign. Being watched by the fact of his eating vegetable program, read by his poetry, revealed the three points of his pains: "The Economical Insufficiency", "Suffering Diseases" as well as the sympathy of "All Objects and Self unified in Ones". I explained and analyzed them in details, understanding the contribution and new creation of local meal culture in SU Shih's poetry. In "The Economical Insufficiency", I concentrated on the poet of the second year of "Writing verses in the same theme of the honest poet TAO Yuen-Ming with his seven poems", SU Shih had mentioned that" I moved to Hui-State over one year, my daily life became to be shorted and worse than before. On Double Nine Festival, I was in a poor condition, and composed the same theme to the honest poet TAO Yuen-Ming". I investigated above subject carefully. Referring to the "Suffering Disease" status, he composed the poem "Reply to HUANG Lu-Chih the fourth piece of total five poems", and said in his letter that "the Hui-State has been governed clear and bright. I have left Hui-State for Zhien-State, several days later, suffering from piles, over one hundred medicines was useless, then I stop eating meat, plus stop some vegetables with five flavors. Daily I eat two bowls of noodles in light style, sesames and some cups of Tuckahoe. I follow the vegetarian rules stricter than HUANG Lu-Chih" I used the example and discoursed on it. "All Objects and Self unified in Ones" is the essence point, because he has met a large misery, deep-felt the sympathy of the bitterness of animals and aqua product while they are killed. This was the reason why he started on the vegetable program.

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