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美容科技學刊

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篇名 中草藥萃取應用於美容之可行性研究
卷期 9:1
並列篇名 The Study of Chinese Herbal Medicines on Cosmetic Ingredients
作者 張文雅馬志明陳華偉吳芊逸李億琪
頁次 013-021
關鍵字 DPPH中草藥抗氧化美白防曬酪胺酸酶Antioxidant activityChinese herbal medicineExtractsInhibition of tyrosinase activity
出刊日期 201203

中文摘要

近年化妝品市場主要以天然植物、中草藥為主要發展方向,許多國際大廠亦紛紛推出以天然植物萃取為主的化妝品,含中草藥植物的化妝品亦將成為新一代天然化妝品配方的趨勢,故本研究利用黃柏、荷葉、五倍子、丹皮等四種中草藥之異丙醇萃取物進行抗氧化能力、美白能力、防曬能力評估。結果發現黃柏、荷葉、五倍子等之清除DPPH 自由基能力較佳,其兩次測試的清除DPPH 自由基能力平均值,分別為96.4%、96.7%、95.2%,此三種中藥材適合作為天然之抗氧化劑之另一種來源。另外在美白能力測試的結果顯示,黃柏異丙醇萃取物對酪胺酸酶之抑制率為97.9%。在防曬能力測定結果發現,添加1wt%黃柏、荷葉、五倍子等萃取物於防曬乳時,使其平均防曬係數(SPF 值)由空白實驗的25.1,分別增加至為42.2、37.8、28.6。綜合上述結果可知,黃柏之異丙醇萃取物同時兼具有抗氧化、美白、防曬能力,可作為未來開發為新的化妝品活性成分與研發美容保健產品之用。

英文摘要

Recently, the specialties of Chinese herbal medicine have become a mainstream in the development of active ingredients for the cosmetic industry. In this study, preliminary screening of IPA extracts from four Chinese herbal medicines (Phellodendron amurense,Nelumbo nucifera, Rhus chinensis, and Paeonia suffruticosa) with tyrosinase inhibitory
activity, antioxidant activity and sun protection factor was investigated to the applications of natural whitening, antioxidant and sunscreen ingredients. The results showed that DPPH scavenging activities of Phellodendron amurense, Nelumbo nucifera, and Rhus chinensis for
24 hours extraction with 40% IPA solution were more than 95 %, and the sun block with addition of these could enhance the prevention of UVB. Among four tested Chinese herbal medicines with IPA extraction,tyrosinase inhibitory activity of Phellodendron amurense,Nelumbo nucifera, Rhus chinensis, and Paeonia suffruticosa was 97.9, 8.9, -30.3, and 1.2 %,
respectively. In conclusion, Phellodendron amurense with higher tyrosinase inhibitory activity, SPF and antioxidant properties were obtained and suitable for use of cosmetic ingredients.

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