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輔仁民生學誌

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篇名 臺灣客家傳統服飾文化特質之再發現
卷期 17:2
並列篇名 Rediscover the Cultural Characteristics of Taiwan Hakka Traditional Dress
作者 楊舜云鄭靜宜張維安
頁次 139-153
關鍵字 客家文化傳統服飾文化建構
出刊日期 201107

中文摘要

  本文試圖「再發現」已被今人歸類為「客家傳統」的服飾在客家論述中被強調的特質及其所表現的客家文化特殊性。論文主體分三部分來分析:(一)台灣客家傳統服飾的形貌特色:與閩南傳統服飾對照分析,了解客家服飾本身物質元素所具有的特性,以及各元素所整合出來的服飾外觀全象所展現的客家特色;(二)客家婦女服飾與客家社會:將客家婦女服飾外觀置於客家社會脈絡中思考,發現樸實的客家服飾反映了客家婦女需要勞動的現實,也幫助客家婦女社會角色之形塑,對客家社會結構的建立和族群特性的建構都有舉足輕重的影響力;(三)客家婦女服飾與客家精神:簡單樸實、機能性良好的客家傳統服飾體現了「勤儉」的客家精神,而「勤儉」的客家精神也影響客家人的衣著態度和偏好。研究發現以「衣著簡樸,維持天足」著稱的客家婦女傳統服飾外觀,與客家論述中的客家歷史、社會、文化脈絡互相呼應,凸顯出客家在困頓生存條件中發展出勤勞節儉的「文化特質」,是建構「客家特色」不可或缺的要素。

英文摘要

  This paper analyzed the dress which has already been categorized as “Hakka tradition” and attempted to “rediscover” the cultural characteristics of them, which are highlighted by Hakka discourse. This paper contains three major parts. First, the characteristics of Taiwan Hakka traditional dress: In contrast with Holo traditional dress, we found out the character of material elements of Hakka dress, and the characteristics of whole appearance put together by elements. Second, Hakka women’s dress and Hakka society: Considering Hakka women’s dress and appearance within historical and social contexts of Hakka, we found that plain Hakka women dress reflects a reality that Hakka women had to work and helps to shape Hakka women’s social roles. Hakka women dress has a powerful influence on the establishment of the Hakka social structure and the construction of ethnic characteristics. Third, Hakka women dress and Hakka spirit: succinct, plain and functional Hakka women dress embodies the Hakka spirit of being industrious and thrifty, on the other side, the Hakka spirit of industrious and thrifty has also influenced the dressing attitudes and preferences. This study found Hakka women appearance which is known for “plain dress, natural feet”, corresponds with Hakka historical, social, and cultural contexts that Hakka discourses have described, thus highlighting the industrious and thrifty cultural characteristics which are the development of Hakka living situations. Hakka women dress is necessary elements for constructing “Hakka characteristics”.

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