從一次深坑的週末之旅出發，本文探討來自臺灣都市的觀光客，如何在消費 「地方」的過程中，建立出品味的差異性與都會世界性的認同，並在遊歷、想像、排 列不同地方之間，描繪出臺灣城鄉關係與發展的圖貌。對「地方風味」的追尋與強 調，一方面反應了近年來政治變化下對本土的日漸看重；另一方面也源自經濟社會 變遷中產生的懷舊心理，以及地方追求發展的壓力。為了因應全球化的衝擊，文化 和地方性成為市場中的商品，「臺灣」與「本土」也因而進入了消費的脈絡，消費地 方便如同消費其它商品般，得以成為一種生活風格的選擇。藉由展現他們的在地知 識、對環境的關懷、對飲食品味的敏銳度，以及和不同地方的連結，這群都會觀光 客標示他們自己為不一樣的「臺灣人」，同時本土而國際、在地而全球。然而，他們 的旅行卻也脫離不了臺灣，使得這樣的旅遊和其「國際」的想像，依然在國家疆界 之中運行。

Following a group of translocal urbanites to a small town known for its tofu cuisine and old streets, this paper explores how the consumption of local places and manufactured authenticity constructs a new middle-class taste and cultivates a cosmopolitan identity for urban Taiwanese. The turn to the local in Taiwan is both a reflection of changing political terrain that has prompted an inward search for local cultures and a response to market pressure. While local places are fertile ground for the formulation of a Taiwan-centered consciousness, once commodified, localities are consumed for something beyond nation-building. The visitors used Shenkeng as a stage on which to partake in a game of social positioning by displaying their local and translocal knowledge, by asserting definitions of good taste, and by performing the role of the well-informed consumers. In the deliberate search for a past-in-the-present, the culinary map, environmental consciousness, and understanding of Taiwan’s geography they demonstrated in the course of the trip, the visitors affirmed themselves as a different kind of Taiwanese, one who can traverse localities and cultivate a cosmopolitan awareness of the exotic, the authentic, and the irony of an impossible authenticity.