在人類學的學科史，民族誌田野有其核心的位置。筆者在這篇文章指 出，民族誌田野工作不僅積極產出人類學知識，並也涉及身體經驗、個人 情緒、人類學者之專業自我與認同的修練。本文討論筆者在貴州東部大山 裡的一個苗族(Hmub)村寨’以民族誌學徒之身’進行遊方的田野。以此 闡述田野的聽與寫作為一種身體修練，既是關乎個人學習與瞭解的一種人 類經驗，亦是特定文化脈絡下的社會建構。經由描述我個人在民族誌田野 裡的學徒經驗，探索「我聽」與「我寫」兩者之間的關聯，以及它們如何 影響並轉變我對一特定苗族文化以及我自身的內在瞭解。其意義與細節之 所在，不僅來自深夜敲窗聲的內容與音韻風格，更是「聽」的經驗本身。 後者串起好幾層不同個人情緒，並轉變它們。此情緒經驗的變化過程，也 涉及了筆者對於自己作為民族誌田野工作者的認同。深夜敲窗聲的聽與對 聽的訓練’使文化挫折、衝擊與害怕、無所適從的感受’到熟悉的情緒轉 變，得以呈顯，並也因此才感同身受地進入苗族未當家姑娘內在的情緒與情感世界。

Throughout the history of anthropology, fieldwork has stood at the center of our discipline. In this article I argue that fieldwork not only produces anthropological knowledge, but also engages the ethnographer in cultivating specific bodily experiences, personal emotions, and the professional self or identity. I will discuss my ethnographic apprenticeship, studying Miao (Hmub) courtship in a village in Guizhou, to recount my sense of learning and understanding human experience and social construction in that cultural context. By reflecting on my bodily cultivation during fieldwork, especially the processes of listening and writing, both key experiences of a field ethnographer, I explore how the interaction between what I heard and wrote during my observations transformed my internal understanding of both the specific culture and my self. It was not simply the content or sonic patterns of late-night knocks on windows that inscribed meaning, but the hearing experience that linked personal emotions and transformed them as they related to my identity as a field-worker. That knocking made it possible for me to move from a sense of culture shock, fear, and dislocation to one of familiarity and sympathy with the emotional worlds of young Hmub girls.