原住民的食物系統是與民族生態知識及環境永續密切相關的，近年來，由於環 境災難不斷，如何重建原住民的食物系統，如何在生態與經濟發展中求取平衡的課 題益發顯得重要。本研究以作者從1995年至今，在馬太鞍溼地從事研究調查而累 積十五年的田野資料及歷史文獻資料，分析馬太鞍食物系統的變遷，以及馬太鞍人 士透過生態觀光及風味餐推動溼地的保護的社區營造行動。本研究發現，殖民主義 以及現代化發展是改變馬太鞍傳統食物系統的兩大力量；而近十五年來的社區營造 成果雖再現了溼地的傳統食物系統，重建了溼地的價值，但卻難以改變溼地農民的 處境。同時，本研究並針對如何將地方知識及地方飲食生產著床回地方社會與文化 網絡中，重建地方食物系統提出操作建議。

The indigenous traditional food system is considered to have a special relationship with ethnobiological knowledge and environmental sustainability. Currently, how to reconstruct the indigenous traditional food system and its connections to ecology and economy has become an important issue. This paper examines changes in the traditional food system and it’s reconstruction from a historical perspective, through the case study of the indigenous Fata’an community in eastern Taiwan. The study finds that there are two forces for change affecting Fata’an’s traditional food system —one is the progress of modernization as a project of colonization； the other is capitalist infiltration along with modernization. Although Fata’an people have succeeded in reconstructing the traditional food system in the wetlands and also re-building the value of wetlands through cultural revitalization and the development of eco-tourism, they still have difficulties influencing and changing the wetland farmers and their situation. The study suggests that it is important to embed local knowledge and local food in local society and cultural networks when reconstructing cultural food systems.