近年來，中國大陸發生了一条列食品安全醜聞。食品安全事故頻 發，使消費者第一次感受到風險社會就在自己身邊。這對於經濟和文 化資本都普遍缺乏的農民工來說，究竟意味著什麼呢？本文以廣州市 的案例研究為例，探討食品安全風險背景下農民工食品消費的客觀情 境、風險感知與風險策略。
研究發現：與其他社會階層相比，農民工無論是在食品購買、外 出用餐、還是家庭烹飪，其食品消費的客觀情境都是極差的。他們對 食品安全風險的焦慮度相對較低，而且主要關注於食品衛生風險。之 所以呈現出如此局面，是由如下四大條件決定的：一、預算限制大， 使他們遵循食品支出最小化和兩棲消費的邏輯；二、媒體接觸低，使 他們成為媒體時代的「無知」型消費者；三、傳統文化的抵消效應， 使「不乾不淨，吃了沒病」的觀念成為部分農民工的行動邏輯；四、 社會記憶，使過去的苦難突顯出今日的「幸福」。在具體的消費實踐中，其消費呈現出四大特徵：一、實惠為先；二、矛盾性的食品衛生 關注；三、熟悉性適應；四、部分消費者擁抱食品安全風險。

In recent years, China has witnessed a series of food safety scandals. Consumers for the first time have begun to feel that purchasing processed foods is risky because of the frequency of food safety incidents. What does this situation mean for migrant workers who lack economic capital and cultural capital? This paper investigates migrant workers’ objective situation in terms of food consumption patterns, risk perception and risk strategies using Guangzhou as a case study.
The study found that compared with other social strata, habits of food shopping, eating out and home cooking among migrant workers are very poor. Their level of anxiety about food safety risks is relatively low, and they focus mainly on food hygiene risks. Such a situation is due to the following four conditions: (1) a very limited budget, resulting in a habit of minimizing expenditure on food; (2) low media exposure, so that they remain unaware of information available in the media; (3) eating habits carried over from traditional Chinese culture, so “slopping eating disease” has become part of migrant workers’ logic of action; (4) social memory of past hardships, so that the suffering of past contrasts with today’s “happiness” In concrete consumption practice, their consumption shows four characteristics: (1) actual benefit is the primary factor; (2) attention is drawn to contradictions between food and hygiene; (3) familiarization with foods leads to adaptation; (4) some consumers accept food safety risks.