台灣知名散文家周芬伶是屏東潮州人，她的飲食書寫中，有一部分在訴說自 己的身世與家族故事，並建構故郷的飲食文化，如《戀物人語》（2000)、《汝色》 (2002)、《紫蓮之歌》(2006)、《青春一條街》(2009)、《蘭花辭》(2010)中的 敘述：每天家裡大圓桌滿滿的菜，大祖母又有另一桌自備的私房菜，全家一頓飯 非吃兩小時不罷休。她又針對潮州鄰近幾公里畫出一張美食地圖，那是潮州鎮最 繁華的地帶，在戲院、菜市場與三山國王廟之間，發展出一條小吃街，從早到晚 有杏仁茶油條、煎稞、花枝羹。廟口的月桃葉花生粽配肉羹、客家炒稞，煙酒公 賣局騎樓下的擔擔麵等都是難得的美食。這些飲食文本與身世、情愛、空間都環 環相扣。
本論文釐析周芬伶散文中的飲食文本，關於潮州故郷的飲食書寫，周芬伶不 僅只是表現味覺享受而已，在這些文本中常呈現在地的文化景観，成為親族朋友 共同的記憶，甚至藉食事來鋪陳自己的身世，隱喻三代間的情欲關係。此外，論 文中亦討論到，因為熟悉的人情，這些食物勝過世界名菜，與庶民潛意識中的記 憶恆常相伴，周芬伶將食物所訴說的故事，轉化為郷土情境的重建與詮釋。由於 在地生活的情感，周芬伶將飲食當成一種符號建構，它被賦予特殊的文化意義， 一個看似狹小的潮州鎮，包含了無限的象徵語境，成為文學上可以被探勘的領 域，塑造了一處與台灣其他市鎮不同的文學景観。

Born in Chaozhou, Pintung (屏東，潮州)，Taiwan, Fen-ling Chou (周 芬伶)，a well-known essayist, mostly writes about her hometown. Some of her prose relates her own life experience and family story, and some constructing the diet culture of her birthplace. Words of Fetishism, Her Beauty, The Songs of Purple Lotus, The Young Street, All About Orchid; in Fen-ling Chou’s these works, readers can find narrative about diet as what follows. “Every day on a big round table are full dishes of different kinds of food. Besides, great grandmother supplies her personal delicious dishes on another table” She also draws a good food map of Chaozhou within a few miles一the most jumping area among the theater, the traditional market and the Temple of Three Mountains King. This space has developed into a snack area, within which provides from dawn to dusk almond paste cruller, Pan-fried Radish Cake, Cuttlefish in thickened soup, month peach leaf peanut, steamed rice dumpling, Hakkas fried rice strip, Sichuan noodles with peppery and the like. The sauce noodle stall at the first floor of the building of the Tobacco and Liquor Government Monopoly Bureau are rare
good cuisine. Chou’s these texts about diet are all weaved into the narratives about personal life, love, and space.
This paper analyzes Fen-ling Chou’s narratives about diet. In her texts about her hometown, Chaozhou, Chou does not only show joy of eating but present local cultural landscape. This becomes the common memory of her relatives and friends. Theses narratives are intertwined within her personal background and life process besides the sexual relationships among three generations. What is more, the local and family cuisine for them excels world-famous dishes because the personal life event connections with family members’ memory in the unconscious. In this sense, stories represented in food narrative are transformed into the reconstructions and interpretations of local situations. Due to local emotions, Fen-ling Chou employs diet narrative as signifiers with culturally symbolic meanings. The small town Chaozhou is therefore fully laden with emblematic literary contexts, worth explorations by readers and critics. By her writings, Chou makes Chaozhou into a special literary landscape, distinguished from other cities or towns.