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中國飲食文化 THCITSSCI

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篇名 米酒、美味地景、臺灣味
卷期 11:2
並列篇名 Rice Wine, the Aesthetic Landscape and Taiwanese Taste
作者 蘇恒安
頁次 003-039
關鍵字 米酒聯覺美味地景料理rice winesynesthesiagustemological senselandscapecuisineTHCITHCI Core
出刊日期 201510

中文摘要

美食是近來臺灣觀光吸引力的主要來源,但此表象卻無法真實反映臺灣社會的飲食性格。因此,本文以聯覺(synesthesia)感官的美味意義,連結臺灣味的美味元素:米酒,試圖由此提供不同視角來審視、辯證一般咸認夜市、小吃所代表的臺灣飲食文化。本文以米酒為焦點,採取美味地景的研究取徑,並從米酒使用的儀式、生產與料理空間,觀看出米酒在民眾生命禮儀及情感抒發、每日生活用品,與烹調上所扮演的關鍵角色,進而反映出臺灣飲食文化中緩衝雜錯特性的價值空間。

英文摘要

Fine food has recently become the major attraction in the tourist industry in Taiwan, but this epiphenomenon cannot actually be a reflection of food and drink in Taiwan society. This study applies the concept of synesthesia-derived gustemological sensibility to explain why rice wine best contributes to a distinctive Taiwan Taste, and based on this, provides an alternative space in which to reexamine what really represents Taiwan food culture, which is generally thought of as local snacks or night market food, however. By adopting a conceptualized aesthetic landscape that is focused on rice wine, through its productive, ritual and culinary spaces, we find that rice wine plays critical roles in people’s everyday lives, etiquette, personal expressions of emotion, and cooking. This approach also helps us perceive the distinctive Taiwan food culture that features not just a Chinese philosophy of dietary balance, but also an imbalanced realm between moderate and radical enjoyments of food.

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