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中國飲食文化 THCITSSCI

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篇名 老店新開-臺南周氏蝦捲的創新經營
卷期 11:2
並列篇名 Transformation of a Traditional Cuisine: An Innovation of Tainan Chou’s Shrimp Roll
作者 蕭鄉唯
頁次 041-068
關鍵字 周氏蝦捲傳統小吃創意飲食全球在地化經驗文化Chou’s Shrimp Rolltraditional cuisinecreative cuisineglocalizationcultural experienceTHCITHCI Core
出刊日期 201510

中文摘要

飲食文化的多元性,歷經區域、民族間的流動,在傳統與當代的碰撞下,展現出極大的可塑性,一股創意飲食風潮隨之而來。地方特有的飲食文化,以不同於以往的風貌呈現。隨著時間遷移,在地的口味,因應現代化與全球化經營模式,傳統小吃的轉型,逐漸被人們熟悉、接受;並內化為生活的一部分,成為代表「本土」的產物。本文以臺南小吃「周氏蝦捲」為例,討論隨時代推演而形成的創意料理。周氏蝦捲,除了特有的口感與美味,更因位處安平,坐擁豐富的海洋資源與歷史背景,並透過創新的經營模式,成為安平代表性美食之一。藉由地方特色、店面設計、菜單內容、及服務方式等面向分析,探討周氏蝦捲如何在全球化的脈絡下,保留在地特色,並重新思考創意料理之意義。周氏蝦捲展現了傳統與創新的結合。滿足現代消費習慣的同時,又不失傳統風味;提供「記憶」過去、「經驗」在地的管道。周氏蝦捲的經營模式,似乎受跨國企業─麥當勞(McDonald’s)的影響,將傳統小吃速食化,顛覆國人對小吃的印象。代表速食業的麥當勞,採用的方式是:快速、排隊、自我服務、個人式坐位等,於全球各地展店,成為美國文化的海外根據地,並被視為現代化、都市化的象徵。周氏蝦捲挪用了麥當勞的概念,將傳統小吃帶入現代化的範疇,卻又在某些層面保留地方特色,充分展現全球在地化之文化現象,成為創意飲食的典型代表。

英文摘要

Through the flow of people with a variety of lifestyles, the diversification of dietary culture has illustrated its flexibility and generates a strong creative tendency in cuisine. A number of cuisines appear in an innovative form and contain exotic sensations. Over time, with the globalization of business and the localization of new tastes, people come to be accustomed to and accepting of new cuisines. Exotic cuisine has become part of local food culture. This article takes a conventional snack bar named ‘Chou’s Shrimp Roll’ as an example and discusses a creative cuisine which was transformed over time. Chou’s Shrimp Roll is located on the coast of Tainan city in an area called ‘Anping’. Anping is an area with a varied historical background and access to an abundant source of seafood. Because of the owner, Chou’s Shrimp Roll has not only become the icon of a traditional meal, but developed modern techniques which are closer to residents’ lifestyles. This article analyzes the local features, store design, menu, and service system to find out how Chou’s Shrimp Roll preserves the conventional features while also reflecting the global influences. Chou’s Shrimp roll represents the combination of modern and traditional in the present consumer style and with full traditional flavor. Chou’s provides a ‘memory’ of the past for local residents and an ‘experience’ of local culture for outsiders. The business model of Chou’s Shrimp Roll was affected by an overseas firm-McDonald’s. This turned the traditional meal into fast food, subverting the ideas of conventional cuisine. McDonald’s exemplifies American culture: fast, queuing, self-service, and personal seating. It also established the model of modernization and urbanization. Through the McDonald’s system, Chou’s Shrimp Roll took conventional cuisine into a modern form but Chou’s still keeps its local cultural characteristics. These circumstances truly display the phenomenon of glocalization and become a model for creative cuisine.

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