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篇名 中國月份牌海報畫女性髮型、化妝與服飾之研究
卷期 12:2
並列篇名 A Study of the Female Hairstyle, Makeup, and Costume of the Chinese Yue-Fen-Pai Posters
作者 詹慧珊朱惠英周利娜蔡宜萱
頁次 005-020
關鍵字 「月份牌」海報畫髮型化妝服飾Yue-Fen-Pai postershairstylemakeupcostume
出刊日期 201512

中文摘要

「月份牌」海報畫誕生於二十世紀初上海。早期畫作以中國傳統女性賢妻良母題材,後 來西方電影業興起、女性主義抬頭,女明星妝扮成為當代流行海報畫特色。1910 至1940 年間 的畫作,女性髮型特色為:髮線中分梳理髮髻,臉部彩妝自然,服裝為高領長袖,寬鬆的褲 裝;1920〜1929 年髮型以前額瀏海包覆式短髮為主或指推S 波紋,化妝粉底較白,眉型自然, 淡橘色眼影,立領連身旗袍;1930〜1939 年低層次短髮,水平指推波浪電髮,偏白粉底,細 眉粉橘色眼影。服裝高領短袖,合身剪裁的旗袍為主;1940 年之後,髮型及化妝延續三0 年 代的特色,服裝以改良式的西式服裝,合身的連身洋裝裙。 「月份牌」海報畫的興起、盛行至沒落,象徵該時期社會的變動及歷史意義,當代繪畫 藝術發展與女性髮型、化妝、服飾之演進值得學、業界之參酌。

英文摘要

“Yue-Fen-Pai” posters were born in Shanghai at the beginning of the twentieth century. The Chinese traditional female images as good wives and mothers were characteristic of the early paintings. Afterwards, with the rise of the western movie industry and feminism, the contemporary fashion posters began to feature the makeup and costume of the female stars.In the paintings from 1910 to 1940, the characteristics of the female style were: the middle part hairstyle with a bun, natural facial makeup, high-neck long-sleeved costume, and loose pants. In the paintings from 1920 to 1929, the characteristics include: short hairstyle with forehead bangs or finger S wave, whiter foundation, natural eyebrow, light orange eye shadow, and stand-up collar cheongsam. As for the years from 1930 to 1939, the style features: low-gradation short hairstyle, horizontal finger wave hairstyle, whiter foundation, thin eyebrow and pink orange eye shadow, and perfect-fit cheongsam. After 1940, the hairstyle and makeup extend the features of the 30s. The costume mainly features modified western outfit and the perfect-fit dress. The birth, rise, and fall of Yue-Fen-Pai posters symbolize the social changes and historical meanings of that period. It is also a reference for the development of the contemporary painting art and the evolvement of the female hairstyle, makeup, and costume.

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