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篇名 唐代婦女服裝紋飾圖案題材與圖形結構析論
卷期 17
並列篇名 Study on Pattern Theme and Graphic Structure of Women’s Costumes in Tang Dynasty
作者 游琁安
頁次 125-150
關鍵字 唐代服裝紋飾圖案題材圖形結構Tang DynastyCostume PatternPattern ThemeGraphic structure
出刊日期 201603

中文摘要

服裝可説是文化的外在表現之一,服裝上的紋飾不但具有外觀的形式之美,亦能彰顯内 在的精神意涵。唐代婦女服裝在中國服飾史上號稱最異彩紛呈,由於唐代國力強盛、經濟繁 榮、手工藝發達、對外交流頻繁、統治者的開明與包容政策,整體服裝紋飾圖樣的風格在傳 統基礎上,吸收、融匯了外來文化,呈現出自由、活潑、富麗、異域氣息濃厚的特色。唐代 服裝紋飾圖案變化繁多,可區分爲圖案題材和圖形結構,圖案題材多以花鳥、草舟逐漸取代 走獸成爲主要的裝飾題材,圖形結構則以團窠花、寳相花、捲草爲主的架構形式。受到經濟 富庶的影響,唐人重視休閒而欣賞植物花舟的審美情趣大爲提升,整體服裝紋飾所蘊含的豐 富美學内涵,可反映出時代的文化特徵和精神風貌。

英文摘要

Costumes are one of the external presentations of culture, and the patterns on the costumes not only present the beauty of form, but also manifest the internal spiritual implication. In the history of Chinese costumes, women’s costumes had diverse artistic features and were quite fascinating. Due to the strong national power, prosperous economy, well-developed technology, frequent interchange with other countries, and the open-minded, tolerated policies of the ruler, the style of the overall costume patterns in Tang Dynasty, on the basis of tradition, absorbed and integrated the foreign culture, and expressed liberal, lively, splendid and exotic characteristics. There were various kinds of patterns in Tang’s costumes, and they were classified into pattern themes and graphic structures Pattern themes mostly included flowers, birds, and grass, which gradually replaced the theme of beasts. The graphic structures mainly included Tuan-ke flowers, Bao-shang flowers, and curling grass patterns. Under the effect of prosperous economy, Tang people put more emphasis on leisure activities and were more motivated to appreciate the beauty of plants and flowers. The abundant aesthetic implication which the overall costume patterns conveyed could reflect the cultural features and spiritual faces of that era.

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