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篇名 中秋為何烤肉?一個傳統節慶轉換現代風貌的考察
卷期 40
並列篇名 Transforming Outmoded Customs Make All under Heaven Peaceful: the Construction Process of the Barbecue Custom in Mid-Autumn Festival
作者 陳峻誌
頁次 157-186
關鍵字 中秋烤肉習俗集體記憶廣告the Mid-Autumn Festivalbarbecuecustomscollective memoryTHCI Core
出刊日期 201612

中文摘要

中秋節是關於「月」之節慶,而近年「烤肉」成為臺灣地區中秋夜的主要活 動,是獨出於傳統的新風俗。民眾盛傳此新俗導源於1980 年代後期烤肉醬的廣 告,遂有笑稱此是「商業陰謀」的說法;亦有對此新風俗不以為然的意見。 本文考察「中秋」與「烤肉」連結之發生,始自於1970 年代前後,經濟上升, 民眾在假日外出郊遊、烤肉的風氣成行,進而蔓衍至賞月之時也烤肉,是自然形 成的中秋夜之消遣。因此此新風俗與商業廣告無直接關係,「廣告說」乃反映了民 眾對於習俗改變的既成事實之追溯與建構。在群眾模糊集體記憶的追溯建構中, 似是而非的資訊與論述逐漸被接受,經過媒體與群眾傳播的交互影響下,「商業陰 謀」之命題於焉確立。 該如何面對由下而上的習俗改變,是古今政府一致的難題。雖然命題非真, 但「中秋烤肉」新習俗卻凸顯民俗節慶內容與社會民眾生活密切連結的現象。此 俗始於群眾,政府則試圖扮演「導正」的腳色,提出「別讓嫦娥笑我們髒」運動, 說明風俗隨時地移易以符合群眾之需求,或許才是歷史的常態,不必予以過多的 非難。

英文摘要

Mid-Autumn Festival is originally a festival of “moon”, however, in recent years barbecue has become a major activity as well as a new trend on Mid-Autumn's night in Taiwan. The prevalence of barbecue in Mid-Autumn Festival can be dated back to a commercial of barbecue sauce shot in the late 1980s, and is claimed as a “commercial conspiracy.” Scholars of folklore possess disagreement with this new custom. This author researches on the connection of “Mid-Autumn Festival” and “barbecue” happened around 1970s. During the economy-boosting period, it was popular to go outside for holiday barbecue, and this soon evolved into custom of barbecue on the day of Moon festival, which was a naturally formed recreation on Mid-Autumn's night. Therefore, there is no direct relation between this new custom and commercial, “the version of commercial” reflects that people retrace and construct the accomplished fact of custom transformed. A paradoxical information and discussion are gradually accepted in a large mass of people’s blurred collective memory. Thus, the proposition of “commercial conspiracy” has been set after the interworking of mass media and people’s communication. It is difficult for a government to encounter a bottom-up custom change. Although proposition is not true, the new custom of “barbecue in Mid-Autumn Festival” highlights the closely-linked phenomenon of folk festivals and social public life. This custom emerges among common people. The government intentionally played the role to intervene, and promotes a movement “Don’t let Chang'e laugh that we are dirty”. It explains that it is perhaps a normal state of changing customs in History along with time and place in order to meet people’s demand.

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