產業之興落與專業人才培育具有極大關聯性，因1990年代的產業大量外移，導致皮件專業技 術人才需求銳減，因而衍生人才斷層危機；近年政府的致力推動產業輔導方案，使皮件開版技 術人才需求逐漸增加，雖產官學三方皆投入袋包與皮件人才培育，但直至今日，不論是大專校 院、個人工作室亦是財團法人單位，仍無相關教學專書，僅透過口述及實務觀摩學習，然而皮 夾開版製作工序繁複且需極高工藝技術，故研究者透過知識管理將口述之內隱知識轉化為圖表 化、文字化之外顯知識，使學習者更淺顯易懂；本研究目的旨在以分析皮夾袋包開版技術，以 開放式訪談法探討臺灣業界皮夾之專業術語、開版數據規格，及開版重點等皮夾製作專業知識， 提供更多有興趣之學習者學習，未來期盼能透過雲端平臺建構開版資料庫，同時希冀本文能讓 皮夾開版技術人才培訓上有所貢獻；針對未來研究建議提出以下三點1 )增加訪談臺灣皮夾 製作之廠商數，以佐證本研究效度；（2)加強皮夾實務製作之重點、處理方式、製作問題及克 服方式；（3 )精進皮夾版型工程之結構改良。

Whether the industry rises or falls is extremely related to cultivating talents. A large number of industries move offshore in 1990, which leads to decreasing demand for leather talents and derives crises on lack of talents. The government has devoted to launching industry mentoring program which makes demands for talents increase. Although the industry, the authority and the academia invest in cultivating talents of bags and wallets, there is no relative class or textbooks in colleges, studios or legal entities to this day. Learners learn relative knowledge only through dictation or observing the actual situation. However, the process of wallet-pattern making is complicated and it requires extremely high craft. Therefore, researcher converts oral tacit knowledge into explicit knowledge which is graphed and text-based through knowledge management to make learners understand easily. This study aims to analyze wallet-pattern making techniques and adopt the opened interview to investigate the terminology, the data standard of pattern making and main points on pattern making in leather goods industry in Taiwan. Provide learners interested in the wallet-pattern making to learn the relative knowledge. Look forward to setting up database through the cloud system in the future and this study is expected to be a contribution to cultivate talents of pattern making. There are three suggestions in the following for the future research. First, increase the number of factories manufacturing wallets in Taiwan to evidence the validity of this study. Next, reinforce the main points, processing method, manufacturing problems and overcoming methods of wallet making in practice. Final, improve the structure of wallet-pattern making.