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輔仁民生學誌

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篇名 文化再現:《賽德克‧巴萊》電影服飾研究
卷期 22:2
並列篇名 Cultural Reproduction: Research of Costume Design for Performance of the Film “Seediq Bale”
作者 陳郁文
頁次 051-060
關鍵字 賽德克巴萊電影服飾文化再現歷史電影服裝Seediq Balecostume design for performancecultural reproductionhistory and film studies
出刊日期 201612

中文摘要

與一般只能利用說寫呈現故事的傳播媒體不同,歷史電影除了具有廣泛的發展空間外,更是作為一個重新詮釋文化的重要手段。導演魏德聖先生以臺灣本土歷史事件為題材的電影《賽德克‧巴萊》,英雄史詩般氣派的格局開創了臺灣電影前所未見的新契機,電影藉由美學營造的視覺傳遞,再現了當時代的臺灣歷史服飾。本研究以電影《賽德克‧巴萊》為文本對象,使用質性研究,先以資料分析法將電影賽德克族服飾織紋進行編碼命名,再透過與該部電影美術顧問邱若龍老師以及電影服飾製作尤瑪‧達陸老師深度訪談,彙整圖像服飾與原始設計理念,以敘事分析的方式系統性的將所得的資料進行分析、歸納、解釋,並進一步探討電影《賽德克‧巴萊》如何利用服飾作為象徵性語言再現歷史文化。本論文研究發現有二:一、該部電影雖以歷史服裝為設計藍本,但在經費與時間等因素的限制之下,簡化傳統複雜性的技藝工程,藉由賽德克族織紋來詮釋與突顯特定角色的性格。二、電影導演加入自身史觀認知與價值理念,將賽德克族傳統鮮明紅白輝映色調轉換成灰濛陰沉氛圍,成功地運用美學轉換與再建構時代性歷史服飾,跳脫成為獨樹一格的文學創作,不失族群本身之文化精神卻加諸新意。

英文摘要

Different from general media which are as a rule presented only by written and spoken methods, historical films have a much broader space for their creation. In consequence, they can be used as an important means for reinterpreting culture. Basing on a Taiwanese historical story and arranging it in a heroic/epic style, the director Tesheng Wei of the film “Seediq Bale” has created a new opportunity for the Taiwan film industry. Such a film adopts the aesthetics of visual expression in reproducing Taiwanese clothing of that era. This study applies the film “Seediq Bale” as a textual object, to analyze the traditional Seediq clothing of characters in the film. In additions, this study also interviews the costume designer Row-Long Chiu and costume producer Yuma Taru, to integrate and compare their concepts in representation. This study uses narrative analysis to inquire into how the film“Seediq Bale” utilizes costumes with symbolic meaning to re-enact a facet of the Seediq history and culture. Major findings of this study include: 1. Although the film“Seediq Bale” means to make close reference to the ethnical traditions of clothing, owing to the constraints of time and money, the production team is obliged to simplify the complexity of Seediq traditional requirements of weaving craft. In this case, they apply the textile textures as highlights in some specific character roles for the interpretation. 2. The director, bringing in his personal view and value of history, changes the tone from bright to dark. He is quite successful in using aesthetics to transform and re-construct historical clothing, and give this film a unique style of literary creation. In short, the costume designs of the film “Seediq Bale” has its own new element but not severely losing the meaning of Seediq traditional culture.

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