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篇名 跨國的珍珠英國珍珠奶茶消費地景的浮現與轉變
卷期 87
並列篇名 Transnational Bubbles Making Taiwanese Bubble Tea in the UK
作者 林潤華林潤華遲恒昌
頁次 001-020
關鍵字 bubble teaauthenticitytransnationalismconsumption珍珠奶茶道地跨國主義消費ScopusTSSCI
出刊日期 201712
DOI 10.6161/jgs.2017.87.01

中文摘要

「珍珠奶茶」被視為臺灣飲食文化相當具代表性的飲品。隨著移民與留學生 的跨國遷徙,深受歡迎的「珍珠奶茶」也逐漸成為移民鄉愁的具體象徵,而當珍 珠奶茶此一國民飲料被全球化、跨國傳遞的過程中,如何在異地被消費,並且鑲 嵌於該地的日常生活消費地景的過程,則是本研究探討的焦點。本文將珍珠奶茶 視為一種文化物質與消費文化現象,以英國作為討論與觀察的地域,企圖梳理珍 珠奶茶從臺灣在地化飲食,通過全球化的跨國移動路徑後,在特定國家呈顯出「再 在地化」的現象。根據研究者在英國六個城市所進行的田野調查結果分析,本文 提出以下兩點主張:第一,珍珠奶茶在銷售上的空間形式具多樣性,依地域性的 不同,可分為「依附店家」、「專賣門市」與「街頭飲食」;其中在專賣門市類別 中,又可根據經營者屬性之差異,再細分為「獨立品牌」及「連鎖品牌」等經營 形態。不同型態的店家為珍珠奶茶詮釋出不同的「商品形象」,其所展演出的「珍 珠奶茶文化」也因而迥然各異。第二,本研究也發現到除了部分消費空間仍與臺 灣的族裔消費元素保持連結外,事實上有更多店家藉由廣告、材料、製作過程等 各式物質或展示所呈現的「道地臺灣 (authentic Taiwan)」或「異國風味 (exotic taste)」強化了珍珠奶茶與都會年輕族群的消費關聯。換句話說,珍珠奶茶的族 裔色彩在全球消費文化的範疇裡正逐漸淡化中,這為珍珠奶茶店在異地在地化的 可能立下基礎。

英文摘要

“Bubble tea” is a popular drink in Taiwan, and the representative drink of teashops there. Taiwanese government official statistics list 18,363 drinking shops were registered in 2015, including shops from more than 100 branded chains. As mobility of out-migrants and overseas students increases, “bubble tea” is becoming a symbol of nostalgia, and can easily be found outside Taiwan. This study views “bubble tea” as both a cultural material and a consumption phenomenon, and considers how the drinking culture of bubble tea has been embedded in specific countries in a transnational level, and in spaces that provide or make bubble tea in the UK. These commercial spaces are seen as transnational spaces with various relations and representations. This work studies the introduction and “relocalisation” of “bubble tea” into some UK cities with different characteristics, namely London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Oxford, Brighton and Exeter, and focuses on the spatiality of the transnational space. We identify three types of consumption space of bubble tea in the UK, based on the location and the characteristics of merchants. Interestingly, shopsinterpret “bubble tea” differently, and provide distinguishing products. As a symbol of “authenticity Taiwan” or “exotic taste”, merchants sell “bubble tea” with diverse elements and strategies. Therefore, this “tea” is gradually becoming a globally popular Asian drink/dessert, but still has strong links to the image of Taiwan, making it a key element of “ethnic commodity”. However, we also argue that the linkage between “bubble tea” and “Taiwanese” is also fading simultaneously; enabling the “relocalisation” of “bubble tea” in the UK.

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