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華岡紡織期刊

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篇名 以熔噴纖維再現可穿的藝術創作
卷期 27:2
並列篇名 Creating Wearable Art Using Melt-blown Fibers
作者 吳妍儀
頁次 101-107
關鍵字 熔噴纖維噴織纖維可穿的藝術Melt-Blown FibersSpray-on FibersWearable Art
出刊日期 202003

中文摘要

熔噴纖維顧名思義是指異於傳統編織的經緯線交織方式,由環保綠色材質TPU受熱熔融,施以壓力由噴嘴噴出細絲,猶如蜘蛛或蠶吐絲一般。熔噴纖維具可回收,可分解,循環再利用的特質,用途廣泛。在時尚界發明可攜罐式噴織纖維是西班牙籍設計師Manel Torres,開發「Spray on Fabric」的方式,成立了Fabrican Limited公司,並舉行時尚科技服裝秀,在時尚界掀起一股驚豔風潮。台灣紡織綜合研究所 (Taiwan Textile Research Institute簡稱紡織所TTRI) 研發出熔噴纖維並註冊專利,生產製造各種應用產品,並讓時尚學界趨之若鶩。至目前為止已有不少學生、學者與紡織所合作,各自創造出不同風貌的作品。本研究也是在2013年與紡織所合作,期間歷經過幾個月的反覆實驗練習,作品經由模型製作、噴織、脫模、後加工,最後成為可穿戴式服飾。如其他創作者大家皆在短時內即刻發表作品,本噴織創作也在同合作的一年於國立台灣博物館發表動態服裝秀及在藝術空間作系列靜態展出,更能觀察作品的壽命維持及時間所產生的變化。本研究者具二十年以上的藝術創作經驗,擷取造形藝術原理及美的形式原理作為美感基礎,企圖提出另一種異材質服裝,創作出可穿的藝術風貌。

英文摘要

Distinct from the traditional warp-and-weft weaving method, melt-blown fibers, as the name suggests, refers to the process of melting down Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU), an eco-friendly material, and extruding micro- and nanofibers from nozzles, just like spiders or silkworms spinning silk. With their recyclable, decomposable, and reusable qualities, melt-blown fibers have a wide range of applications. For instance, in the fashion industry, Manel Torres, a Spanish designer, invented portable canned spray-on fibers. He and his friends developed “spray-on fabric,” founded Fabrican Ltd., and staged fashion shows that crossed technology and fashion, which took the fashion industry by storm. Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI) also developed and patented melt-blown superfine fibers, which have been applied to the production and manufacture of various products, causing a sensation in the fashion industry. Thus far, quite a few students and scholars have collaborated with TTRI to create their distinctive works. This research, too, was carried out in collaboration with TTRI in 2013. Through months of experiments and trials, modeling, spraying, demolding, and post-processing, wearable clothes and accessories were successfully produced. Like the works of other creators, which were published within a short period of time, our spray-on creations were featured in dynamic fashion shows at National Taiwan Museum and static displays in artistic spaces in the same year. As of today, we are able to observe how the works have lasted and changed with time. With more than twenty years of experience in artistic creation, the researcher seeks to propose clothing made of alternative materials and create art to wear on the basis of plastic art and aesthetic formal principles.

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