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華岡紡織期刊

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篇名 藍染文創綠設計-染出文化古美學
卷期 27:4
並列篇名 Green Designs of Cultural and Creative Indigo Dyeing-Dyeing Classical Cultural Aesthetics
作者 林青玫呂兆倉林卿慧殷薇黃于恬
頁次 253-258
關鍵字 藍染文創服裝設計綠設計色彩Indigo DyeingCulturalApparel DesignGreen DesignColor
出刊日期 202008

中文摘要

青、取之于藍,而青于藍,《荀子.勸學篇》道之。近年,地球環境生態遭受嚴重污染及破壞,各種關於「綠色」的環保議題論述如雨後春筍般湧現,全球提倡環境保護、資源永續利用、回歸自然的省思,使天然染色在世界各國受到重視。而臺灣在文化資產與回歸傳統生命源頭的呼聲下,促使傳統藍染工藝與技藝再度受到矚目。臺灣因土質及氣候條件適宜藍草植物的生長,1880年代藍靛出口經濟價值躍居第一位,所染「烏布」等品質優良,聲名遠播;20世紀初葉,因合成染料問世與工業化的影響,臺灣原有的藍靛染色傳統技藝逐漸凋零。而近年在政府的全力支援下,重建藍靛技術;從山藍、木藍的尋找栽種,乃至藍草制靛、建藍技藝等,已漸重現臺灣的傳統藍染技術,並成功推動現代的藍染工藝研發與創新。天然藍染取材于自然,使用過後色素能分解並回歸于自然,正符合現代綠設計的環保概念,本研究藉由探討藍染文化的背景及特色,透過藍染工藝,分析在不同材質及染色次數的影響下,使用不同防染糊,進行色彩表現差異比較的同時,並舉出擷取藍染布料之美,轉化應用於服裝、家飾等產品之設計研發案例,以供文創、相關設計之參考。

英文摘要

In recent years, the ecological environment has been severely polluted and destroyed; all sorts of going “green” related topics have sprouted. What’s more, people advocate the protection of environment, the conservation of resources, and the preservation of nature: making sure environmental issues are taken seriously in all nations. Under the influence of preservation and valuing cultural assets, traditional indigo dying crafts and arts are given attention once again in Taiwan. Due to certain properties in soil and weather suitable for the plants, value of indigo exports has been first in the world in the 1880’s; cloths dyed in Taiwan are usually of exceptional quality, thus rendering it famous. In the early 20th century, when industrial dying and synthetic dye took over, traditional ways of indigo dying faded out and nearly became history. The government has been playing a major role in trying to save this art. Not only has the government been rebuilding and reinventing the craft, but also planting and breeding from indigofera and strobilanthes cusia. Taiwan's traditional indigo dyeing technology has gradually reappeared, and has successfully promoted the development and innovation of modern blue dyeing processes.Natural blue dyes are drawn from nature; the pigments can decompose and return to nature after being used, which is in line with the concept of environmental protection of modern green design. By exploring the background and characteristics of the blue dyeing culture, this study focuses on analyzing the effects of different materials and dyeing times through the blue dyeing process, using different anti-cellulite pastes to compare the differences in color performance. At the same time, it also cites design and research development cases in how the beauty of blue-dyed fabrics applied to apparel, home furnishings and other products, which is for the reference of cultural and educational and apparel design educators.

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