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篇名 《花間集》仕女臉面妝飾研究
卷期 24
並列篇名 A Study on Ladies' Facial Makeup and Decoration in Hua Jian Ji
作者 游琁安
頁次 037-058
關鍵字 《花間集》晚唐五代十國貴族仕女臉面妝飾審美意趣Hua Jian Jithe Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdomsnoblelaadiesfacial makeup and decorationaesthetic charm
出刊日期 202203

中文摘要

《花間集》是由後蜀貴族子弟趙崇祚選編的第一部文人詞總集,共收錄唐末至五代十國的十八位男作家、共五百首花間詞風作品,詞作大多以貴族仕女為描寫對象,題材多為閨閣景物、離別愁緒,風格濃媚艷麗、情調柔婉,展現柔媚豔冶之風情。本文擬以《花間集》為研究文本,探討詞集中的仕女臉面妝飾特色。研究方法為進行文本之梳理、歸納及論述花間詞中有關仕女的臉面妝飾,結合相關文獻資料,依其種類、材質、型式、特點及功用等論述分析,藉唐末五代十國男詞人視角,探究男詞人視角之仕女妝飾特徵及審美意趣,藉以瞭解晚唐五代十國時期之流行時尚及美學價值觀。

英文摘要

Hua Jian Ji, the first literati ci anthology compiled by noble Chao Chung-Tzuo of Later Shu, includes five hundred lyrics of Hua Jian style written by eighteen male authors from late Tang to the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms. Most of the ci lyrics center on noble ladies and the themes are mainly about boudoir scenery and parting melancholy. They contain flirtatious style and tender sentiment, and express the amorous feelings. The present study intends to explore the characteristics of the ladies' facial makeup and decoration in the anthology on the basis of Hua Jian Ji. The research method is to arrange and induce the texts, and expound the ladies' facial makeup and decoration in Hua Jian ci. By reviewing the literature, we discuss and analyze the types, materials, models, features and functions. From the angles of male ci authors in late Tang, the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, we explore the characteristics of ladies' makeup and decoration and the aesthetic charm to learn more about the fashion and aesthetic values in late Tang, the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms.

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