「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」，又稱鹹酸甜，2001年行政院客家委員會將其列入臺灣客家特色菜「四炒」之一。「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」代表臺灣客家延續「吃雜」的傳統，也象徵客家族群在山居艱難的條件下創造的菜餚，與山居勤儉、刻苦耐勞、惜物的族群性緊密相連。但另一面，在全球化飲食消費浪潮下，臺灣社會價值觀、物質環境改變與健康意識抬頭，均在挑戰客家菜鹹肥香和吃內雜的飲食傳統，「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」漸漸退出客家餐桌，究竟「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」面臨何種困境？有何因應之道？黃梨傳入臺灣之後，臺人從食用黃梨鮮果、將黃梨入菜，再發展成客家經典菜「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」，呈現黃梨在飲食發展的生命歷程；1650年代，黃梨首度出現在紀錄臺灣中部大肚番社的文獻；1722年，巡臺御史黃叔璥紀錄「黃梨煮肺」的奇特，開啟黃梨入菜的新頁；清治後期到1920年，類似連橫「鳳梨炒肉，亦珍羞也」的稱許散見地方文獻；1944年，日籍學者國分直一訪查湖口客家農村，亦發現當地有用鳳梨搭配雞內臟或豬肉烹製的鹹酸甜風味菜；1970年代，「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」成為北部客庄辦桌流水席的宴客佳餚；2001年，「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」榮列客家四炆四炒經典菜之一。但在21世紀新型態消費文化的衝擊下，「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」漸漸退出客家餐桌，甚至在客家餐廳也難見其蹤影。「豬肺黃梨炒木耳」的生命歷程起伏跌宕，令人感歎。本文嘗試從黃梨在臺灣的歷史發展，提供認識客家族群菜的新面向。

“Pork lung stir-fried with pineapple and wood ear mushrooms,” also called Hakka style salty-sour-sweet, was officially included by the Hakka Affairs Council of the Executive Yuan in 2001 as one of the “four stir-fries” of Taiwan's Hakka specialties. This dish is regarded as an inheritance of Hakka's “eating animal offal” in Taiwan, and also symbolizes a cuisine created by the Hakka community under difficult living conditions in mountains, which is closely related to Hakka people's lifestyle of being frugal, hardworking and cherishing material resources. However, under the impact of globalization on food consumption, the traditions of Hakka's salty, fatty cuisines, and eating animal offal have been challenged by Taiwan's current social values, changing material environment and rising health consciousness, which has resulted in the disappearance of “Pork lung stir-fried with pineapple and wood ear mushrooms.” What exactly is the dilemma with this dish? Is there any solution? After being introduced to Taiwan as fresh fruit to eat, pineapple was also added into the dish, which developed into the Hakka classic “pork lung stir-fried with pineapple and wood ear mushrooms.” The life history of pineapple has been going on throughout the dietary development; in 1650s, pineapples first appeared in aboriginal mountain villages in Dadu (大肚番社) in central Taiwan; in 1722, Huang Shu-Jing (黃叔璥), the imperial governor of Taiwan, recorded the peculiarity of “pork lung cooked with pineapple,” which opened a new page of pineapple in cuisine; it was not until 1920 that Lian Heng (連橫) raised “pineapple pork stir fry as a gourmet dish;” in 1944, Japanese scholar Naoichi Kokubu (國分直一) ound pineapple used in a salty, sweet and sour dish prepared with chicken offal or pork during his visit to a Hakka farming village in Hukou; in the 1970s, “pork lung stir-fried with pineapple and wood ear mushrooms” became a delicacy at the banquets in northern Hakka villages; in 2001, this dish was listed as one of Hakka's classic four stewed and four stir-fried dishes. However, under the impact of the new consumer culture in the 21st century, this dish has gradually withdrawn from the Hakka tables, and is not even found in Hakka restaurants. What a life course with such ups and downs! This study attempts to provide a new perspective on Hakka community cuisine from the historical development of pineapple in Taiwan.